posted by wtanaka at 12/13/2002 08:03:00 AM

 

Two days ago, in Singapore, I met someone from Malaysia who moved to Australia 10 or 12 years ago. We were both just "wandering around," so at some point, after getting some food, we "wandered" to the malaysian rail station in Singapore. I bought a rail pass and got a ticket for the 3:05p.m. train to Tampin, Malaysia. My intention was to get there in the evening, take a bus to Malacca, and spend a day or two in Malacca looking at the historical sights and sites.

Yesterday, I got to the train station at about 2:59p.m. I saw the money changer there, they accepted Singapore Dollars, and could give me a wide variety of other currencies. "No," I think to myself, "I want to change my traveller's checks in case I come back to Singapore and need my Singapore money, and I can just do that once I get to Malaysia. Plus the train is leaving just about now."

At about 3:01p.m. the loudspeakers announced in Malay, then in English, that actually the train would leave at 4:00 p.m., and the gate to platform 2 would only be open at 3:15 for immigration. I walked into the restaurant at the train station where I met an Indian guy (Tamil, of course) who had been living in Guam and working for the U.S. military for some time. He suggested to me a large series of tasty dishes (S$9 worth) and we chatted about all sorts of things. He brought out his Yoyo (American, purchased in Guam)

The train actually left the station at 4:40 p.m. We stopped at Woodlands checkpoint on the Singapore side of the bridge, got out of the train, entered the building through one door, went through Singapore immigrations, walked to the other end of the checkpoint, exited the building through a different door, and back onto the train.

The train stopped in Tampin around 9:40 p.m.

I get out and try to figure out how I'm going to get to Malacca. Guidebook - not too helpful. Sheet of paper with a list of stations on it - not too helpful. I also realize that I have exactly zero Malaysian Ringgit. The Tampin station office is staffed with two people. I ask if there's a place to change money.

"No," he says.

I explain that I have no Malay money.

"Where are you going? Malacca?" He glances at his watch. "My god."

"Yeah. Malacca."

I explain my situation. I have some Singapore dollars and some American dollar traveller's checks, but no Malaysian money.

No, there is no place to exchange money in Tampin, especially at this hour. There's another face in my face, speaking Malay.

"He says he'll take you to Malacca for 20 singapore dollars."

"Is that my best bet? Do you think I can change money in Malacca?"

"No, not at this hour."

"Well, the 20 dollars is fine, but I'm more worried about getting some Malaysian money."

"Probably you go to Malacca and then find a place to stay there."

Although this doesn't seem like a great idea to me (going to Malacca without any money), I figure that he knows better than I do what is available in Tampin, so I walk with the driver to his car (not a taxi), put my bag in his trunk, take a breath to quell the doubts that are sloshing around in my stomach and get in.

He stops somewhere in Tampin and asks for the 20 singapore dollars.

"This isn't Malacca."

"You give 20 singapora dollar."

"I don't understand."

"You give 20 singapora dollar, no no, stay in car."

"What is this place."

"It's uh. . . mini mart."

"So they will change the money for you?"

"Yes," he responds, more to the tone of understanding in my voice than to the words that I'm saying. I give him the two $10 bills that I have. He gets out, goes into the store, comes back, gets in the car, and says "O.K. Malacca."

The drive to Malacca takes us over 25 kilometers. We spend 30 or 40 minutes trying to find an inn or hotel that is both open and with vacancies. My driver gets more and more frustrated and tries dropping me off at various points including one high-rise condominium. No, I can't stay there for tonight, I try to explain to him.

We finally find a hotel that costs 35 ringgit for the night that has a vacancy. He wants another 10 singapore dollars. Unfortunately, I have $2 and $100. I give him the $2 and tell him that's all I have. I wish I had different bills so I could have given him more.